Best week ever

Paris.

I had to begin by admitting that I didn´t expect a ton out of Paris. I thought it would be big and intimidating, with rude French people, expensive food, stuffy museums and a inpenatrable language barrier. Boy was I wrong. Looking back, I am starting to worry that I peaked in Paris and everything now is less impressive because I think, ¨Well, when I was in Paris...¨ That´s right, I get that dreamy tone in my voice and that faraway look, imagining I´m back by the River Seine with a bottle of wine listening to a nearby guitar and people watching just down from Notre Dame. It was a dream.

Willow trees by the river...Paris knows my weaknesses.

I arrived at the hostel, thankful to be out of the blazing August sun because I (of course) went the completely wrong direction coming out of the Metro and walked several blocks before realizing my mistake. Checking in, I was kindly informed that it was the worst day of the year to be in Paris for 2 reasons: it was August 15, a bank holiday, so everything was closed, and it was smack in the middle of August so it was the hottest of weather and everyone in Paris goes on vacation in August and closes the stores. Ugh. But that was the last of my worries with the city. Once I set my things down and rested a bit, I went out to check out the city.


One of my favorite things was the River Seine. In the summer, the walkways along the river turn into a beach scene - free games, ice cream shops, beach chairs with umbrellas, hammocks under the trees, dancing. They even bring in a swimming pool and set it up. All free for anyone. I hung out here most nights, sometimes with a bottle of wine or picnic dinner, watching everyone else enjoying the same. It is just what you do in Paris. The first night there I also stumbled upon a free rock concert in the plaza in front of Hotel deVille.

As for the people being rude and unfriendly, I had none of that experience. Maybe this was partly due to the fact that I was the seemingly lonely girl by the river, but any time I sat down, I had a new French friend (English-speaking or not) in no time. Granted, they were usually guys, but they werent creepy or overbearing - just friendly. One guy even ran off and found a corkscrew so that I could get into my wine bottle. Minimal English necessary.

Wine, beer and food was delicious. I ate lots of yummy sandwiches. Going to the grocery store was a bit of a challenge, but worth it for cheap food and a great experience.

My grocery store dinner one night by the river. Pasta salad with salmon and merlot. Yum.

The street performers in Paris are the best. Many have their own CDs for sale right there. There was a mini-orchestra of students that I ran into a few times over a couple of different days that was really good. Heard some good ol Southern music on one of the bridges one night. Even saw a guy trucking around a mobile piano.


I found my favorite bookstore in the world in Paris. Shakespeare & Company. All English books, but it is crammed in this maze of shelves and seats in a long narrow store hidden across from Notre Dame. It reminded me a lot of Rhino Booksellers in Green Hills, except more old-timey and a welcoming island of English in an ocean of French. For a long time, they have let struggling writers stay in the room upstairs for a while when they cant manage. Its somewhat famous. I was reading a book just the other day that mentioned it, which excited me way more than was really necessary.

One of the most noticable things in Paris is, naturally, romance. There are couples everywhere - sitting on benches, walking down the Champs-Elysees, riding in a boat down toward the Eiffel Tower - always holding hands and smooching. The city is just so captivating, it is difficult not to fall under its romantic spell.

Cute couple blocking my view = super cute picture

Luckily, I met a French Ambassador of my very own to show me the local (as well as the romantic) side of the City of Lights. We had an amazing time hanging out under the sparkling Eiffel Tower before a midnight bike tour of the city. We rode past all the major sights - the Louvre, Champs-Elysees, Opera house, Moulin Rouge - and I got to hear stories about places where he made memories growing up as well! (Did I mention that this ride was over 2 hours long, hills and all? I was quite proud of myself for making it the whole way.) I felt like I was in a movie, riding around the historic streets in the crisp evening with my scarf blowing behind me. Cant imagine a better way to spend an evening.

Our rendevous under the Eiffel Tower

I could go on about Paris forever, but there is so much to catch everyone up on! Anyways, I am sure you will hear much more about it when I get home, since I cant quit talking about it. It was just perfect.

Bonjour Paris!

I have to start out by apologizing for not blogging more frenquently like I said I would. On the other hand...give me a break! I´m on vacation, right?


So my 3rd city of the trip was Paris. I spent 6 days there, so there is way too much to tell to fit in one post, so I´ll divide it into two: first I´ll talk about the oh-so-famous sights and landmarks I saw, then in my next post I´ll give a more personal insight into my time there.

As much as I hate to do it, I´m going to break this down like into a list. I really feel like it is cheating the real experience to be so brief about them, but it´s the most practical way to hit on everything.

Notre Dame - Attended Sunday mass here. Love the exterior and the architecture, but again, those pesky tourists were loud and sometimes pushy inside. I don´t get why people aren´t more reverent in churches sometimes.

Notre Dame from the backside.

Louvre - I´m no art afficianado, so although the Louvre is a huge deal for most folks, I have to admit I wasn´t super excited about it. My time was limited, so I tried to see all I could in my 2 or 3 hours there, which is no time at all in such a massive museum. I started with the Egyptian artifacts, which was a huge collection and quite interesting. Then I hit the Renaissance paintings and stopped by the Mona Lisa (not impressive, IMHO). The Louvre is fascinating because the collections seem to wind through rooms of all shapes and sizes, up and down stairs, and the architecture is as much a sight as the artwork. There was just so much to look at!

Sacre Couer - Great views of the city, beautiful church. Again, very crowded.

I´m sure when someone people see Sacre Coeur, what they really see is all the steps leading to it.

Versailles - I was really pumped about Versailles, and planned on spending most of a day there. Castles and palaces are my favorite - the Biltmore Estate is one of my favorite places in the US. But this place was crazy. There was a huge line to buy tickets, then you get in a different line to enter the palace, then another line to pick up your audioguide. Finally inside, the place was absolutely packed with tourists whose main goal was to take pictures, not see the actually place. And the guided groups like to stand in the very center of everything and block anything important, including doorways. My favorite part of the interior was the wall coverings - so colorful and vibrant. Yep, I´m weird like that. The gardens behind the palace are ridiculously huge and there are fountains and sculptures hidden throughout the maze-like paths. I didn´t see it all because it was midday and hot as blazes.

The orange grove, part of the gardens at Versailles

Catacombs - Who would have thought that this tour would have the longest lines in Paris? It took an hour and a half to get in, but several of the people in line around me were from the States, so I got to hear some native English. The Catacombs are fascinating - all those bones that are so far underneath the city, below the metro and sewers even. They´re stacked so precisely and often skulls are arranged in hearts or crosses. Creepy and awesome.


Arc de Triumphe and Champs-Elysees - Cool, but not all that exciting. Impressive that they had the foresight to create such wide streets and grand roundabouts, though.

Eiffel Tower - Oh, the great landmark of Paris. France, for that matter. It is really a beautiful monument. The weather was quite chilly and overcast the morning I visited, but by the time I got to the 2nd level the cloud started to give way to some sunshine and blue skies. Really loved it. Also breathtaking to see at sunset and at night. One night I walked all the way there from my hostel, and it is like a mountain - you keep thinking you´re almost there because it is just so huge, but it keeps growing.

It´s THIS big!

Of course I saw more in Paris, but that´s hitting the highlights of the more famous landmarks. More to come on Paris later!

Amsterdam

As you first step off the train in Amsterdam, a breeze of marajuana hits you in the face. When I was leaving, I decided it's because everyone tries to get one more joint in right before they board the train out.

I have a habit of getting lost as soon as I step out of the train station in a new city. This time, my misdirection wandered me straight into the heart of the Red Light District. I didn't realize it at first, either. Once I did, I just looked straight ahead and kept walking. It felt awkward or something, which may have been partly because I was carrying my heavy pack and frazzled with trying to get around a new place and not knowing if/where I would get a hostel for sure. But I struggled on.

The hostel I stayed in was in a much more tranquil area, right on the canal Leidesgracht. Minimal and very steep stairs, but beautiful area and lovely views. I've rarely heard English spoken on the streets, but it's not problem when I shrug my shoulders and say, "English??" for locals to switch languages. I don't think I met anyone who couldn't communicate in English, at least enough to get the job done.

After some sightseeing on Friday - Van Gogh museum, street market where locals go, Beginhof, Anne Frank House - and more wandering the streets, I've decided that Amsterdam has a feel to it that I can really get behind. Outside of the Red Light area, where young guys are everywhere looking for a cheap thrill, the city is quaint. The atmosphere and people are very unassuming and open. Bikes outnumber cars, and every other street has a canal running through it. The houses are tall with huge windows that are almost never curtained. Doors are very narrow, which was a way to get around taxes. Houses have a hook on the top of the buttress (is that the term?) so they could pull their furniture up and through the windows because the doors are often too small. Fun Fact.

People here soak up the weather in outside tables at bars and restaurants. Windows and houseboats are full of colorful flowers and plants.

Yep, I found my side of Amsterdam.

Brussels

Internet cafe! The closest thing I have to home. I miss endless free internet.

So, time to recap my trip so far. It's already been a week - can you believe it? It feels like forever.

It turns out that Brussels was a very good place to start. I spent my time in the city wandering around to the botanical gardens, big park in front of the palace, the square. The cathedral there was my favorite. It's a very peaceful and quiet city (and very clean!). In the afternoon everyone goes out to the park with their sweetie or even alone to enjoy the day and beautiful surroundings.

Naptime by the pond in the botanical gardens.

Not much more to say about Brussels. Sounds boring now, but it was a good transition after my long travels overseas. It was also nice that there was no pressure to see and do everything because I know I'll be back in 8 weeks!

Next stop...Amsterdam!

I must be crazy.

My last thought as I walked into Nashville airport was, "I must be crazy!" Honestly, it's the first time I realized it.

I was so right.

I landed in Brussels at 7 AM local time. In planning, I had figured that I would just follow crowds or find an information station to direct me onward. Nope. I managed to find the train station and get off after backtracking a station. Very few signs had English translation. On foot in the city, I changed direction no less than 3 times before finding the right way to the hostel. Found it and checked my bag, with a few hours to kill before I could get into the room, so I strolled over a block or so to the Botanical Gardens and wandered around before finding a spot by the lake and napping for a bit. By early afternoon, the park filled with couples and working folks out to enjoy the beautiful springtime-like weather. Very laid-back and clean city.

More to tell on Brussels soon, but time's up for tonight! Also will post pictures as soon as I get a chance.

By the way, hello from Amsterdam!

Pack it up.

Thanks to all my Nashville friends who came to Flying Saucer last night to hang out and give me hugs before I leave! There were 35 or so folks that stopped in over the course of the night. Love you guys!

Those of you that know me well know how much of a procrastinator I am. True to form, I left for the send-off last night with [most of] my Europe things strewn across my bed, unpacked. Before you call me crazy, there is a reason I didn't throw it in the bag yet. I wanted to be able to see everything I was taking and check it off before it went in the bag.

So I slept on the couch.

Awake by 7:30 AM, I started putting everything together. My mom came to Nashville to take me to the airport and drive my car to Paris, so she was a huge help.

My progress as of 9 AM (about 3 hours before time to be at the airport)

After the bag was finally packed, Mom and I crammed my car with the rest of my earthly belongings that were at the house in Nashville (Thanks MaryAnn and Lauren for letting me squat in your house for the last month!!). And no, they weren't packed up before that point.

So that's it. Everything I own will fit on my back or be packed away 4,500 miles from me for 2 months. So much for worldly comforts.

Away I go!

Visual aid

Here's a map of the cities to which I plan to visit. I'll discover other interesting spots along the way (especially toward the end of the trip, because I know Munich won't really be the last stop), and will update this map as I go.

more...

I'm not sure if this is posting correctly. If you can't see it, just click on the map or let me know and I'll try to fix it.